ANOTHER FEW MONTHS IN PARIS… WHAT WOULD YOU LIKE TO SEE?

I’ll be back in France for a while. I’ve been here for about a week and a half and have been looking for English teaching gigs to make a little cash in between writing a few different articles for various publications.

While I’m still taking time to do touristy things, this time around I’ve been seeing Paris through Parisians (or French people who have lived here for a few years). Their Paris does not include weekly trips to the Eiffel Tower, the lovelock bridge, or to the Louvre. It includes drinking an espresso or glass of wine with friends, taking walks around the city, enjoying a nice meal every once in a while and doing normal everyday things like going grocery shopping, or to the market, going to work, and enjoying a movie at home every once in a while.

I’m enjoying all of these things, but I’m also excited to give you a peak at what you’d like to see in Paris! If you are curious about something here or want advice on what to do in the City of Light, send me an e-mail (karifiverson@gmail.com)! I’ll visit museums, restaurants, gardens and more and let you know what I think!

To stay up to date on everything I do and see follow me on Instagram!

Un petit café dans une brasserie parisienne. {A small coffee in a Parisian brasserie.}

NAVIGATING MY AWKWARD POST-GRAD LIFE

Allow me to bring you up to speed (on my life).

I graduated from college one year ago. I didn’t follow the “normal” postgraduate route and find a nine to five job. Instead, I spent last summer waiting tables on the docks of Lake Minnetonka, buying impromptu plane tickets to Albuquerque, New Mexico, Chicago, Illinois, and Buenos Aires, Argentina. Then, I decided to learn French, so I bought a one-way ticket to France. I was told on a daily basis how “crazy” I was and that I should just settle down and find a job.

It would have been easier for me to listen to this so-called “advice,” but I’m glad I stuck to my gut and took off for France with nothing but my camera, computer, and very heavy suitcase.

I lightened my load along the way and got rid of what I could, because, quite frankly, pulling a suitcase that weighs almost as much as you do up 200 or more stairs in the metro is way more work than a few pairs of pants and sweaters are worth.

During the seven months I spent in France not only did I see a new part of the world, I learned a third language, met more interesting people than I can count on two hands, and discovered that being “crazy” is not only fun, but also rewarding.

I flew back to Minnesota mid June to visit my family and make enough cash to move again. I’m heading to New York on September 7 and possibly back to Paris for one month. I’m not sure where I’ll be living come October, but I have six weeks to figure that out. That’s plenty of time, right?

The post-graduate cookie cutter plan isn’t for everyone.

Life is about trying on hundreds of different hats until you find a perfect fit. I’ve worn many hats over the last year, from a student, to a waitress, a writer, a news reporter, a storyteller, a gardener, a nanny, and more.

I’m still navigating my awkward post-college life, debating if grad school is the right decision for me, applying for jobs almost every day, and living in my childhood bedroom. Most people think that’s every college grad’s worst nightmare. Not mine. Living with my parents and working anywhere from one to three jobs, depending on the day, has allowed me to begin making my dreams my reality. I get to explore the world.

MOON LIGHT, MOON BRIGHT

I spent the month of April and May at a workaway in Roquebrune Cap Martin, France, located in between Monaco and the Italian border on the Côte d’Azur.  In between gardening, reassembling little cabins, painting and the like on the immense property I’ve once again gotten behind here on the blog. I’ve spent the day going through photos and looking back at all of the stories I’ve written in my notebook about the 15-20 other workawayers I lived with over the past few months, the trips I took along the coast and what an adventure this has been!

BACK TO THE RIVIERA

As we were getting ready to leave Paris I found myself packing up my suitcase one more time. Leaving Paris is never easy, but one thing is certain, you always leave her with good memories.

My family and I took the train south to Nice, where my French adventure began. We settled into Nice with an aperitif on the beach and a stroll through the narrow, but colorful, streets of the old town. Seeing as Jena was leaving the next morning, I insisted she try a French specialty – escargot.

As you can see, it wasn’t her favorite…but it was fun to watch her try them! I enjoy them quite a lot, and with the amount of butter and garlic on them you can’t go wrong.

We spent a morning exploring Monaco – from le Rocher to Monte-Carlo, Monaco always makes an impression.

We stopped in Villefranche and enjoyed lunch by the water. Afterwards, I showed them where I lived and went to school for a month, but more importantly, I made them walk up the hill (more like mountain) that I walked up with my luggage that originally weighed almost as much as I do. Needless to say, they were breathing heavy without the luggage and could finally understand what I meant when I wrote them the initial e-mail that said, “I think I might have died today.”

Nice is an active city – from the beach to the hiking trails, there is always somewhere to go. We hiked up to Parc du Chateau (Castle Hill) where there are incredible panoramic views of Nice, especially the old town and the port. Later I brought them to the Marché aux Fleurs (Flower/Farmer’s Market) – one of my favorite places to go in Nice.  You can smell the flowers from blocks away and the vendors are always friendly. You also can’t go wrong with your seafood when it’s caught less than an hour before you buy it.

The South of France is filled with medieval villages. While they’ve become touristy, their narrow streets, magnificent views, and castles bring you back in time. Eze is a medieval village near Nice; we spent a relaxing morning winding our way through the village and visiting the exotic garden at the top. There are a handful of sculptures designed by Jean-Philippe Richard placed throughout the garden, each of them was given a first name and is accompanied by a quote giving them a personality of their own.

 

Marina: “De l’une à l’autre, Semblable et différente, Unique certainement.” II “From one to the other, Similar yet different, Most certainly unique.” 

Margot: “Suivez-moi, jeune homme Et vous connaîtrez tous mes secrets… ou presque.” II “Follow me young man And you shall know all my secrets… almost.” 

Mélisande: “Qui m’a rêvée? Qui m’a créée? À

Although we didn’t spend a long time in Nice, it was a fun to show my family a glimpse of my life on the French Riviera!

RETOUR À PARIS

Audrey Hepburn once said, “Paris is always a good idea.” She had it right. After spending the holidays in Paris I knew I needed to come back.

When I arrived here it was raining everyday.  I’ve procrastinated buying an umbrella for the past three months because I lose just about every umbrella I buy, even if it’s raining, but I finally cracked.  I was sick of having wet dog hair.  The day I bought an umbrella was the last time it rained… go figure.  Call me superstitious, but now I’m convinced the day I leave it at home is the day it will rain.  I take it with me everywhere I go, hoping the sunny weather will last.

Without further ado, here’s a peak at the last few weeks in Paris!

Flower Markets on Sunday Mornings

Around Montmartre

At the Louvre

One of the hidden gems in Paris – Promenade Plantée – an elevated park.

Le Mur des “Je t’aime” – The “I Love You” Wall – “I love you” is written 311 times in 250 languages!

Celebrating Miquela’s Birthday!

Overlooking Paris!

To stay updated on my daily snapshots of Paris, you can follow me on Instagram!

SAYING GOODBYE TO NEUILLY-EN-DONJON

The people I met in Neuilly-en-Donjon are some of the most welcoming people I’ve met while traveling.  During my last week and a half or so in the country I got to take part in a few of their many traditions!

In France it seems that there is a celebration for just about everything.  When La Chandeleur (crêpe day) celebration ends, usually Mardi Gras begins immediately.  However, this year it falls a few weeks later.  To make sure I tasted what Mardi gras is like in the French countryside, Raphaëlle started festivities early this year! That means making beignets.  I’ve never tasted anything quite like them, it’s like mixing a doughnut and a funnel cake together and poof-poof you have a beignet.  Sprinkle it with powdered sugar and it’s ready to go… or you can top it off with a bit of Nutella or jelly!  No matter how you eat it, you can’t really go wrong.

Making Beignets

Music is a big part of the French culture.  When people think of accordions they often think of France, Parisian cafés or old movies; but accordion music really belongs to the Auvergne region.  Raphaëlle’s friend, Roland, is a very talented accordionist; after enjoying aperitifs and dinner together Roland whipped out his accordion and began playing a wide array of songs.  I tried to play too, but it sounded more like loud noises than music.  I’m don’t see much of a future for myself playing the accordion, but I love listening and dancing to it with Raphaëlle and Melanie!

 

When I arrived in Neuilly-en-Donjon one of the first questions people started asking me was how long I was going to stay. It was a legitimate question; I assumed people wanted to know if I was going to become involved in their lives or was just passing through for a week or two.  I suppose that was part of it, but I soon found out part of the question was to find out if I’d be around for the “Foire d’Embouche.” 

Directly translated “Foire d’Embouche” means “fattening fair,” but the fair is a time for a few communities to gather together and showcase their animals, mainly cows, eat tête de veau (calf head), drink wine (wine, and more wine), enjoy each others company and celebrate another fair with a few bottles of champagne in the evening.  Going to the fair is as important as going down the Big Slide or eating cheese curds at the Minnesota State Fair.  For those of you that aren’t from Minnesota, that is important.

It was a wonderful way to see everyone I met during my month and a half in the country and share one last meal before leaving.

These are the cups that were designed for Melanie and I… I have to say, a wine necklace is very convenient.

A few photos from the Foire and a few of the many faces that made my time in Neuilly-en-Donjon a wonderful experience!

Merci a tout la monde en Neuilly-en-Donjon pour tous les merveilleux souvenirs! J’ai rigolé beaucoup avec vous. Merci pour toute votre patience et d’avoir aider avec mon français ! Je me rappellerai toujours de mon temps dans la campagne française! A la prochaine!

My last day in Neuilly-en-Donjon.  Missing Blendine in the photo, but these are the ladies I was with day in and day out! (L to R: Melanie, Valerie, Me, Raphaëlle)

A few highlights from the last few weeks in Neuilly-en-Donjon:

Making Paella – Helping TonTon Bernard in the restaurant

Every Wednesday there is a “Marche aux Bovins” or a “Cattle Market” in Saint Christophe En Brionnais – you can buy cows in bulk, bid on them at an auction, or buy just one, two or three for meat.

    
At the local lumberyard and walking around town.

A bientôt Neuilly-en-Donjon … Prochain arrêt (next stop): Istanbul, Turkey!

LYON

Lyon is lovely.  It is the third largest city in France and the capital of gastronomy.  It was founded by the Romans and was the birthplace of cinema.  It’s a UNESCO world heritage sight and a city where the past meets the present, the north meets the south, and the Rhône and Saône Rivers meet.

Last week I took a quick last minute trip to Lyon, it was time for me to breathe a little city air.  It’s only two hours away by train, but I was lucky enough to have a ride most of the way (Merci, Chabu!)!  When I take short trips, sleep isn’t very important, but seeing as much as I can is.

|| Saône Riverfront ||

I arrived in Lyon around 7 p.m. found my hostel and headed out with people from around the world.  It was fun to see Lyon by night and I enjoyed the walk along the river.  We met a few students from Lyon at a bar when we accidentally stole their table, but ended up enjoying their company for the night!

While in Lyon I made my way to all of the tourist attractions, but also made sure I had time to just wander the streets and people watch, too.  The Basilica at the top of the Forvière Hill was stunning.  It was very different than other basilicas I’ve visited in France; the priest greeted all of the visitors and the Byzantine style interior was extremely colorful and had busy tile patterns on all of the walls, floors and ceiling.  Upon exiting the Basilica you’re presented with a panoramic view of Lyon.   Just down the hill, the influence the Romans once had on Lyon remains visible with the ruins that have been well preserved. They are multifunctional and serve as a historical landmark in the city, a gym for ambitious runners who train on the steps, and a concert venue in the summer.

 ||Above: Overlooking Lyon – View from the Basilica ||
|| Below: At the Basilica ||

|| Roman Ruins ||

Lyon is filled with different plazas. Place Bellecour is one of the largest plazas in Europe and while its size was impressive, there wasn’t much to see.  Place des Terreaux is another large plaza, home to the Museum of Fine Arts and City Hall, which are both extravagant buildings.  Although both of the plazas are nice to visit, I wouldn’t consider them highlights of Lyon.  My favorite part about Lyon was wandering aimlessly around the narrow streets of Vieux Ville (old village), through the traboules, and tasting a traditional meal at a bouchon – a typical Lyonnais restaurant.

          

       

The traboules are narrow passageways, usually covered, that were used by silk manufacturers and locals to quickly transport goods down to the river. They were also used during World War II to stop German forces from taking complete control of the city since they were dark and only locals knew how to navigate their way through them.  Today they’re marked by small tile plates on the sides of buildings or next to doors pointing you in the direction of the next passageway.  I spent a few hours wandering through them and admiring the street art that seemed to be everywhere.

 
|| Traboules ||

One of my favorite memories of Lyon is at a café.  It might seem like I drink quite a few coffees, however they usually lead to an interesting conversation or two.  My French is nowhere near perfect, but I was able to chat with a gentleman sitting next to me reading the paper.  He turned out to be quite the history buff and gave me a crash course on Lyon’s history dating back to the 4^th century BC when there was a Gaulish settlement to present-day metropolis.

 
|| Modern Day Lyon: Plazas and Vintage Stores ||

|| Around Lyon ||

            

Street Art around Lyon || Top Right: Back view of chimneys seem from riverfront

Lyon, Lyon, Lyon… a lovely city, lovely people, and lovely food.

A PEAK INTO MY PAST AND PRESENT

At this time last year I had no idea I would be in France right now and I definitely didn’t anticipate that I would be living in the country.  In fact, I don’t think I’ve pictured myself living in the country since I was in the first grade when I wanted to be a pig farmer “when I grew up.”

My dream of becoming a pig farmer quickly died when I found out farmers kill the pigs – I could never do such a thing.  I refused eat bacon, ribs, or pork chops all in the name of protecting my favorite animal. My favorite food was BBQ turkey ribs – that’s right, turkey, nice lie Mom and Dad.  When I was 11 I found out the truth – the delicious turkey ribs I had been eating for years were actually pork.  I remember crying for days and feeling so guilty for having eaten pig.  I can’t help but think about this story whenever I go with Raphaëlle and the other “workawayers” to feed the scraps of food from the restaurant to the pigs at her friend’s farm.

Photos: Feeding the pigs. Obviously the one on the right loved me a lot, he kept jumping up on the wall to say hello and goodbye.

In many ways, living in the country is giving me a taste of my childhood dream. I’m doing things I never imagined I would be doing.  I’ve gone to a hen house, helped cook cow tongue, watched Raphaëlle cook tête de veau (calf head), and chopped up more different types of meat than I like to think about.  I listen to cows moo, roosters cluck, pigs snort and goats bleat on a regular basis.  I have gotten my shoes muddy and fed a baguette to Bimbo, the horse.  It’s not that any of these things are abnormal; it’s just not my norm.

Photo: Holding a cow tongue.

Part of the beauty of taking a trip or an adventure like this is having the opportunity to experience a totally different life. I’ve learned about the art of sheep shearing; I’ve visited a Cristallerie where glasses and vases are engraved by hand and old heirlooms can be repaired.  I’ve seen how hard farmers work and might even get to learn how they make cheese. Although I still don’t like eating pig, unless it’s “turkey,” I’ve gained a new appreciation for the country.  I haven’t just visited the country; I’ve met the people that live here and enjoyed their company.

That said, and new cooking experiences put aside, one of my favorite things about being in the country is the landscape.  It is absolutely stunning.  Last weekend Raphaëlle, Melanie (workawayer from Germany) and I took a drive to a few different viewpoints to admire the beauty of the surrounding regions.  There were picturesque views throughout all of the rolling hills and valleys.  We made stops along the side of the road to explore; I found a sheep and tried to pet it, but it didn’t care for me and either tried to bite me or eat my hand, I’m not sure which one.

Photo: Overlooking the Brionnais region

 
Photos: Sheep I tried to pet on the side of the road.

Our adventure led us to Semur-en-Brionnais an old village with a chateau dating back to the 9^th – 10^th century. A Romanesque church was also built in the town and is considered to be one of the most beautiful in South Burgundy. People were dressed to the nines throughout the town square, either because they were coming from a celebration or because they were dressing for a town that it is considered to be one of the most beautiful in France.

 
Photos: (left) Saint-Hilaire Church in Semur-en-Brionnais; (right) sundial clock in the Semur-en-Brionnais town square.

As our afternoon adventure wrapped up, we welcomed in La Chandeleur, i.e. crêpe day in France.  Raphaëlle made crêpes all week, the spinning, flipping and spreading nutella, jam or sugar all over the crêpe never got old.

I’m not infamous for planning ahead of time, this whole adventure has been planned last minute.  I don’t know where I’m heading next and I enjoy living spontaneously.  Although I don’t know much, I do know that I will most certainly be celebrating La Chandeleur again next year.

OH-LA-LA!

At L’Herbe Folle lunch isn’t complete without a homemade dessert and me-oh-my are they good.  Raphaëlle seems to test my self-control (i.e. sweet tooth) on a daily basis.   My cooking and baking skills remain slightly questionable, but I’ve learned – well, watched – how to make a few of the desserts.  My tasting skills, on the other hand, have been put to good use!

Without further ado, I give you a sweet taste of happiness:

I didn’t think I liked Creme Brûlée, then I tasted it here. It is life changing.

Warm homemade galette is like tasting a slice of heaven.
(Galette: layers of pastry with an almond cream filling)

Île Flottante or Floating Island is a poached meringue that floats in crème anglaise (English cream). If I wouldn’t get sick and didn’t have a conscience, I think I could drink a few cups of crème anglaise. Adding a poached meringue to it makes it that much better, but it’s not complete without caramel drizzled on top… which I forgot to add before I snapped this photo! 

Mousse à la Framboise – Rasberry Mousse

Making Macaroons
When Raphaëlle told me we were going to make macaroons, I might have started drooling. It’s a slightly lengthy process, but I taste tested along the way. The almond flour needs to be ground up to a very fine consistency, mixed with egg whites, sugar and a few other ingredients until it becomes shiny. The “batter” is shaped into bite size pieces and then, you wait… for hours, until they are ready. My first attempt at making them (with help of course) wasn’t the most successful… something happened to half of them, but they still tasted phenomenal! I told Raphaëlle we should make them with all of the workawayers, I’ll be an expert by the end of my stay here if we do!

Vacherin Fraise: a homemade meringue in between two layers of strawberry ice cream topped with homemade whipped cream.

I’ve only covered about half of the desserts she has made. There have been a few chocolate cakes that are to die for, tiramisu, homemade caramel, apple crumble and more, but I’ll give you a taste of those another time!

BIENVENUE À NEUILLY-EN-DONJON

Workaway is a website I discovered before arriving in France. It allows you to search for hosts to stay with; in exchange for room and board you help out with various jobs – from cooking, to construction, to childcare.  I thought of it as an opportunity to practice (or force myself to learn) French and try living somewhere completely different from what I am used to!

My first Workaway is in Neuilly-en-Donjon, a small town of approximately 234 people, in the Auvergne region (next to the Loire Valley and Roanne) in Central France.  My host, Raphaëlle, owns a family style restaurant where I help with food prep, serving and cleanup.  I live in her home above the restaurant in the “town center.” There is a church with a clock tower that chimes every hour on the hour directly in front of the restaurant and a few other houses, but beyond the houses there are miles and miles of rolling green hills.

Photo (left): My house and the restaurant, called “L’Herbe Folle” or “Crazy Grass.”
Photo (right): One of the views from the restaurant’s front door.
Photo: View of the town from my room

I’ve always loved living in big cities – I love the fast paced rhythm and the wide array of things to see and do, but there is something to be said about living in a small town, too.  The pace of life is more relaxed. Everyone knows everyone, people say hello wherever you go, and people help each other out.

Raphaëlle is a very welcoming host and has introduced me to nearly everyone in town, or so it seems, and her horse Bimbo!  Over the weekend she closed the restaurant for a few hours and we had lunch with friends in the neighboring village and I was able to taste a traditional dish from the Savoy region – hot cheese (very similar to cheese fondue) with potatoes, cold cuts and a tasty bottle of wine.  Her friend, who is also the butcher for the restaurant, had us over for an apéritif – a before dinner drink (or a few) – one night, too.  I was also able to get out for a few hours and take a quick tour of the town and the surrounding villages and take a quick walk along the Loire River.

Photo: Bimbo

Photos: Neuilly-en-Donjon’s soccer field and the little lake

  
Photos: Around town

After spending two weeks in Neuilly-en-Donjon I am finally starting to get people’s names straight – at least the regulars that come into the restaurant.  I’m speaking enough French to have very short conversations, but I still find myself lost in conversation often enough. Attending language school gave me the French base I needed to survive in France, however French people talk A LOT faster than language professors do; they also use loads of slang (as expected). Sometimes it seems like there are least three or four different expressions used to say the same thing.  I try to pay close attention to conversations to grasp at least the gist of what is being said, but some days my brain feels like it has been smashed by a panini maker and won’t work anymore.  However, I knew the language learning process was difficult and I’m confident my brain won’t hurt so much in a few months!  Until then, it looks like I’ll be playing Duolingo (language learning game) on my phone and reading children’s books at night!

Photos: Neuilly-en-Donjon has some amazing clouds and colors at sunset.